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Old August 27th, 2006, 02:07 PM   #1
Alex
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Edelweiss High Alps tour - August 2006

Hi all! Annie and I are at the first hotel of our Alps motorcycle vacation. Our first flight out from SFO was delayed almost 2 hours, and as we had no slack time left from when we needed to be in Munich to get to the first meeting point, we were a bit worried. All turned out OK, as there was enough of a layover for us in Chicago that both us and our luggage made the 2nd flight. Neither of us slept too well on the plane, but we tried (6 PM Saturday from Chicago, landing in Munich at 9:50 AM Sunday).

After getting our luggage in Munich, we had some extra time to wait for the Edelweiss shuttle, but they showed up right on time to collect us and take us to the hotel (which is 45 minutes outside of Munich in Sauerlach). As soon as we stepped out of the bus, Tom was already there to greet us, and let us know that he arranged for us to get to the bike pickup early ahead of the crowds. It was in fact a great help, because we got to talk with the mechanics in a much more easy atmosphere than if 25 other people were picking up bikes at the same time, and they were very willing to share the tools we needed to hook the gadgets up to the bike (wiring for the heated clothing, tankbag mounting, GPS, prepping for Autocom, etc). All was set up pretty quickly, and we then took the bike back to the hotel. We have a 2005 R1200RT with about 30k kilometers on the clock. The bike feels fine, though the rear shock is going to have a struggle with the 2 of us plus some luggage. Also I'm going to miss the cruise control, custom windscreen, and custom seat of our own RT (the stock seats on these bikes are simply awful!).

We got to skip the bike handover session, since we already had the bike, so we slept right up until the main briefing at 6 PM. In the meantime, Rob Thull made it in from Lucerne and called to let us know we'd see him at the briefing. The guides seem quite good, Tom was very excited for the folks we've got, as he has been on several rides with each of them individually, and we have both of them (Christian and Axel) for this trip. There is also a third guide, Frank, who I think is new to MSMC folks at least. No real surprises at the briefing other than the realization that youngin's are rare on these tours. They went over the european traffic rules, and other things that we needed to know, handed out the t-shirts and some hotel information, and we were soon on our way to dinner at the hotel. Decent food, decent company, and here we are.... Christian had some stories of the Isle of Mann (yes, as a competitor and finisher in the Production 1000cc class back in 1998), and we no longer had thoughts about trying to race our guide around on the RT.

Off to sleep, with the first real ride starting tomorrow at 9 AM. I know Annie is excited about getting to Neuschwanstein, which is the castle that Disney based its famous castle on. The weather forecast isn't great, but isn't awful either, so we'll just have to hope for sun. Wish us luck!
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Old August 27th, 2006, 02:57 PM   #2
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Live coverage from Europe!!

Good luck, sounds like you're off to a great start, and glad to hear the rented RT isn't too run down. Maybe next time you should ship your seat. ;)
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Old August 28th, 2006, 02:02 PM   #3
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Fun first day of riding! We pretty much immediately split off from the group, and me and Annie, Rob Thull, and Tom Hall went off on our own for the day. The roads were pretty decent, even though it was somewhat wet toward the end of the day. We did get to see the "Disney Castle" (Newschwanstein), but we didn't get to go inside. We ended up taking quite a few pictures (soon to be linked) from a nearby location. Our tour guides heavily discouraged going to the inside, as 2 - 3 hour waits for a tour which spans the only 3 rooms available to the public, make it a bit of a disappointment for folks with limited vacation time.

We did get to see a neat old church at Weiskirche, and we got quite a few pictures of other castles as well. Ann served as a great navigator all day, and the GPS helped her out as well. We managed to find all the places we were looking for without much trouble, and ended up at lunch on time and even back to the final hotel a few minutes before the other bikes (and while doing at least as many miles!). Yay us.

We'll definitely have more pics up later, but here's some of the fun ones so far...

(click here for full pic gallery)
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Old August 28th, 2006, 09:54 PM   #4
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Christian the Bad-Ass

Wise not to try to race Christian - you should ask him about the time he took care of a group of hot-shots in the twisties while on an LT
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Old August 29th, 2006, 09:16 AM   #5
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Got some wonderful pictures today! (and managed to fit in a great ride as well...) Here's one quick one before the rest get loaded. This is a bridge in Switzerland; the two bikes are Tom Hall and Rob Thull. Annie took the picture from the back of our bike:
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File Type: jpg DSC03192.jpg (68.0 KB, 418 views)
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Old August 30th, 2006, 09:47 AM   #6
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That is a great shot Annie. Great snappin'!!

Really glad things are going well! Even if things don't go smoothly it is still such an adventure! I'm not jealous...no really...I'm not!

Oh and Alex?



Sorry, I had to use it!
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Old September 1st, 2006, 12:48 PM   #7
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Alrighty Mark, the last few days have been truly incredible. Absolutely perfect road conditions on absolutely perfect roads. No worry about tickets. Pretty much all cars are reasonably attentive drivers who are also friendly and courteous to motorcycles. It's basically motorcycling nirvana for a full week, with mountain pass after mountain pass after mountain pass. It almost becomes too much after awhile, but then you come to your senses and realize you need to do more. Yesterday we rode from Bolzano, Italy to Strassen in Austria, and really started to get into the Dolomites. The riding here has probably been the best in the trip. Today was a "rest" day, meaning we weren't heading anywhere else for tonight, but we still went out and had a reasonably aggressive ride from 10 am - dark. I actually tailed off a little early to get back in time for dinner with Annie, and thanks to the GPS it was a piece of cake to get routed directly back to our hotel over roads that I could barely pronounce let alone process or understand.

We've taken several hundred pictures, and some of them are even loading as I type. I think at least 300 are on our smugmug site right here. But a few of our favorites are below:





Neuschwanstein! (The "Disney" castle)




One of our tour guides, Christian, preparing the most elaborate "picnic" we've ever had:




Lindenhof castle, Mad King Ludwig's hunting lodge. These are the grounds in front...


Our hotel for the 2nd night in the Alps:


The castle where the Lichtenstein head honcho lives. He wasn't in because the flag wasn't up.


Tom, Rob, and another rider on the tour (Peter Moore) coming down a switchback right behind us:


One of the first snowy passes we saw, Fluefenpass or something like that:




Planning for the day's ride:


In front of a 1000+ year old church:


Tom trying to pull away. Good luck with that.


Ah, Alps!



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Old September 1st, 2006, 12:56 PM   #8
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Passo dello Stelvio, with 48 switchbacks to get up one side, and about as many to get down the other side. Insane.


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Old September 1st, 2006, 03:35 PM   #9
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Great stuff Alex! It's only making totally sick for Italy!

Christian looks just the same as he did 6 years ago. A great guy and an even better guide.

Here's a shot of our trip to Stelvio 2 years ago.
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Old September 4th, 2006, 01:59 AM   #10
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What a great trip! The last few days kept getting better and better. On Thursday, we came into Strassen and arrived at the hotel where we'd be staying two nights (Friday is a "rest" day). Dinner was decent, and the bar was fun as always. On Friday, Annie decided to stay nearby and get some exercise, so she rented a bike and went castle-hunting. I took the bags off the bike (to get it under 600 pounds ) and had a very sporting ride with Axel and the rest of the group. While the R1200RT handles well in all conditions, including 2-up with luggage; it's significantly easier to flick around 1-up with no bags. It will never have the steering precision or suspension performance of a full-on sportbike, but nevertheless I had great fun trying to keep up with Axel on his K1200R, especially as he got more comfortable with the new (to him) bike and he really started getting on it out of the turns. We ran quite late that day, undoubtedly due to a late start, because there certainly wasn't any issue with the pace. We had a snack or two on top of some of the passes, but we did make it in for the "official" lunch stop sometime near 3 PM. It was Frank's turn to whip up a picnic for us, and he did a fine job.



The K1200R gave Axel a bit of a scare right before lunch when it started puking green fluid all over the road, but it turned out to be nothing more than a loose radiator cap. A bottle or two of water, and the bike was good to go again. Frank had similar issues in the van dragging that trailer for the picnic all the way to the top of the pass, but he still managed to get there well before we did. I'd like to believe he took a more direct route.

After the picnic I checked out the GPS and saw that I could be back to the hotel right around 5 PM if I went reasonably directly, while the rest of the group was going to stay out until 6:30 or 7. I had promised Annie I wouldn't be back too late for dinner, so I said my good-bye's and headed down the road. That ride was one of my favorites of the trip; riding alone at speed through the Dolomites, with great road conditions, limited traffic (which was dealt with promptly), and even more great views. Much of the route back to the hotel mirrored the route we had taken into Strassen the day before, so the turns started to become familiar (and faster).

At dinner that night we met back up with Tom, and had a nice meal before heading to the bar for a nightcap. OK, nightcaps. Tom had some bad luck the day before on the tour, tipping his GS over at a stop on uneven pavement. He was mostly OK, just some bumps and bruises, but his GS fared worse. No significant damage (it was a 0 mph drop), but evidently the bike was inverted longer than recommended, and the ABS got completely fooked. At least that was the german technical term explained to us by the guides. His brakes would intermittently go from power assist to no assist, with various warning lights flashing away. They were not able to fix the bike with the tools available, and there was no additional bike available for the rest day or final day back to Sauerlach. He did get to ride back from Strassen to Sauerlach with Christian in the van, so I'm sure there was at least some exciting roadplay happening on the way home. I have visions of the huge van with trailer trail-braking into switchbacks with the engine screaming away, kicking the back end out and wheelie-ing back up the hills. If anyone could make it happen, Christian's the guy.

On the last riding day of the tour (Saturday), we had to get from Strassen to Sauerlach, with the highest peak in Austria on the route ("Grossglockner" or something close to that). Annie and I led a group of bikes (Rob Thull and Peter Moore) all morning first to Heilgeblut (interesting church / cemetary, where many of the climbers who have perished on the Grossglockner are buried). There is a heavy-duty aluminum book at the site with the names of each unfortunate soul, with empty pages at the end to add any necessary names in the future.





The trip up to the top of the peak was a fast one, with great sweeping turns and great vision ahead, allowing for some significant speed and lean angles. Annie's favorite part of the day was undoubtedly seeing and feeding the marmots that live on/near the glacier; I'm sure she'll post pictures soon. Here are some shots of the peaks and some silly motorcyclists.







It's worth mentioning that bikers are *extremely* welcome in this area, with a million free parking spaces for motorcyclists, and all cars giving way promptly as we all were coming up the mountain.

Our next sightseeing stop was Edelweis Spitz (forgive the spelling, but I think it's close). This peak had very tight cobblestone switchbacks to get up to the top, with the structure on top of the hill labelled "biker's nest". On the way up we were briefly following a few sportbikes, one of which managed to keep stalling the bike in front of us before we came to our senses and went right around. In his defense, these tight little roads aren't easy, though none of the rest of us had significant issues on the ascent (but we'd been doing switchbacks like that all week).



On the way down from Edelweis Spitz, we were following this very unique looking K1.



He was doing what he could to keep the silly couple on the RT (us), behind him, but he was ultimately unsuccessful.







The last stretch of the tour involved some great roads heading toward Sauerlach, with some of them reminding me of west Marin (sweepers, elevation changes, great views through forests, etc). There was a minor clusterf*** when one of the bikes we were with tailed off from the group without Rob and I noticing. We waited for quite a while, then backtracked to the last sighting without any success, though we were 99% sure he had gone by with another large group of motorcycles. There were hundreds of bikes on the road in this area, so it was foreseeable that we would have missed him. This happened to be right in the middle of some type of cow parade. Those silly Germans...







After getting around the cows and circling back and forth for awhile, we were able to convince ourselves that he must have been fine and latched on to another group, so we resumed our trip north with only a few hours left to go on the bikes. The very last stretch including a few dozen kilometers on the Autobahn, and some stretches of that road had no speed limit. We were very eager to see what these bikes could handle, but traffic conspired to limit us to only two separate blasts up to mach 9. The RT hit 205 kph on the GPS (127.4 mph) before I had to bury the brakes while coming up to slower traffic. I know there was another 10 mph or so in reserve given a longer stretch, but it will have to wait until the next tour. The German drivers were incredibly attentive, with a neat convention that really should be adopted worldwide. As the cars came up to slower traffic in front requiring any significant braking, all cars put on their hazards while slowing, until the car behind also put on their hazards; then the car in front would immediately turn theirs off. This wasn't an isolated case; all cars in all lanes were doing this absolutely predictably. It made it very easy to see the minor traffic jams and spurts along the highway, and no doubt made for safer driving as speeds vary up and down. I try and turn on my hazards in the US when I'm afraid someone behind won't see me in time to stop, but it's certainly not something I do often, and I very very rarely see any other cars doing it either. Here is Rob tooling along on the Autobahn before exiting. Check out those blurry trees!



When we pulled into home base, we first filled up the bike and went back to the hotel to check in. Annie and I stripped off most of the equipment that we had installed on the bike, and took a minorly squidly trip back to the garage (2 streets away). Once at the garage we borrowed some tools and Annie removed the Gerbing wiring loom we had installed directly to the battery, and Frank was happy to shuttle us back to the hotel. The last dinner was a fun one, with good moods all around, and nice wrap-ups of the trip from our guides. The bar was quite busy until a bit later than usual compared to earlier on tour, and the final bench-racing session was as fun as all the others. Sunday morning came quickly, and we packed quickly to get on the shuttle to Munich for the flight home. Here's Frank saying goodbye at the airport:



Here are some of the final stats for the trip...
trip odometer: 1839 km (including the trip from the airport in the van, so approx 1800 km of real riding)

moving average: 58.8 km/hr (seems slow! but it's hard to go much faster when you rarely get out of second gear)

trip time (moving): 31 hours 17 minutes (and my ass feels all 31 of those hours; the BMW seat designers should be shot. Or at least be forced to visit Mike Corbin or Rick Mayer's shop to see how a seat should work)

top speed: 205 kph (127.4 mph, reached on the autobahn). Fastest top speed on "real" roads was 170 kph (105.6 mph) coming into Strassen from Bolzano on day 4.
All in all Annie and I had an absolutely wonderful time, and wouldn't hesitate to book another tour immediately. For those of you who have thought that this might be something you'd be interested in, you should definitely jump on the opportunity. I haven't had a better week of motorcycling in this lifetime, yet I can't wait to try and top it on the next tour...

I've attached a few GPS files to this post, including a Garmin GDB format, a universal GPX format, and also a Google Earth KMZ format which lets you zoom into anywhere along the route and even play it in real-time. All 600+ of our pictures from the trip can be found right here.

- Alex
Attached Files
File Type: gdb Edelweiss High Alps Tour.gdb (135.1 KB, 9 views)
File Type: gpx Edelweiss High Alps Tour.gpx (742.6 KB, 16 views)
File Type: kmz Edelweiss High Alps Aug 27 - Sep 3, 2006.kmz (59.9 KB, 18 views)
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Old September 4th, 2006, 02:40 AM   #11
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Here's a small video clip from the top of one of the passes on Friday. I think this was Passo Sella.
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Old September 5th, 2006, 03:10 AM   #12
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Annie's European Adventure

Wow what a trip! I spent most of today sleeping and trying to recover from jetlag, so here I am now trying to post something before I have to head off to work in 4 or so hours. Since Alex gave you live updates from Europe and then posted pretty much immediately upon return, I'll just give you my personal highlights. If things get repeated, sorry!; it was probably something worth mentioning twice!

1. Tour Prep / Start of tour!
Edelweiss gives you a tour book, hotel list (well, we had to ask them to fax it), and map in a package prior to the trip, so being me, I did my homework before we left the states. I had googled all the hotels, read the book, and highlighted the routes I wanted to take on the map. Each day, you are given 2 route choices. Route 1 - short route with stops. Route 2 - motorcycle enthusiast's choice. Guess which route Alex wanted to do? (For those who don't know Alex, route 2 of course!)

However, for Day 1, I had highlighted Route 1 because I wanted to stop at the Castles! Especially Neuschwanstein! The rest of the days, I had highlighted route 2. Since the map backpack thing worked so well for the Cal24, we used it again for this trip. It was GREAT! I can't believe I never got one of these things earlier. As a matter of fact, while we were in Europe, I saw BMW suits with the map on the back built into the jackets! You could pop off the clear plastic things and put them back on the back of the jacket with the built-in snaps. Maybe Alex's next jacket will have to be one of these BMW jackets with the map on the back option.


Anyway, here's the MSMC crowd at the start of the tour.

Alex and his trusty steed.


Here's Rob and his steed.


Tom was quite excited about starting the ride on the first day, so I was only able to get a shot of him ON his bike while at a traffic stop.


Day 1 was from Saurlauch (just south of Munich) to Warth, Austria. Since the weather was rainy/snowy, it was advised that we all take route 1. Yeah! Castles! Unfortunately, one of the guides discouraged going into Neuschwanstein. He said that there were long lines and it wasn't worth doing. I was disappointed... but Alex has promised that next time we go to Germany, we will tour the castle.

Here's a pic of my dream castle:


We had a picnic the first day. This is no simple picnic! Here's a pic of the cold selection:


There was also HOT food too! Here's one of the guides cooking:


Day 1, we saw snow and even had to ride in the rain/snow. The day ended with a wet ride and we were glad to finally arrive at our destination. The hotel had an indoor pool, so we got to take a refreshing swim before dinner. Our room was so cute! It reminded me of Hansel and Gretel and a gingerbread house.

Here's a pic of the lounging area in the room.


And of the cute little desk in the room.


Oh the food! I love to eat and I love good food. This trip is filled with YUMMY meals! The European breakfasts are great! The dinners each night were also wonderful! The best part of all, dinners ALWAYS included dessert!

2. Castles and churches everywhere!
The scenery during the tour looks just like all the pictures. While we were riding through all the tiny towns, I couldn't help but feel like I was in an amusement park - Kings Dominion's Germany or Disney's Epcot Germany. I know that is terrible to say since I was actually IN THE ALPS, but I have to give the amusement park designers credit for really capturing the look and feel of this area. Here are my favorite pictures from Day 2.

I took this pic of Tom and Rob from the back of the bike. Am I a great photographer or what!


Snowy Alps


EPCOT OR REAL?




3. Swiss inspired
When I woke up for Day 3's ride, I was inspired by being in Switzerland, so I braided my hair with Swiss braids.

Here's a pic of my braids during the morning's briefing.


Here's a pic of flowers I took while waiting for our turn to go through a tunnel.


We stopped at a church that was 1000+ years old. On the outside was a sundial. I didn't think to check its time, but someone later told me the time was theoretically correct, but unfortunately not completely correct since the sun dial was not built with the daylight savings time option.


We didn't get any inside pics, but the church is famous for its Fresco pictures. Per Dictionary.com, fresco is "Also called buon fresco, true fresco. the art or technique of painting on a moist, plaster surface with colors ground up in water or a limewater mixture." The wall behind the altar had a fresco painting of Jesus. I know it was probably not a good thing to be thinking this in a church, but the Jesus looked just like the Jesus in South Park (hee hee).

More castles.




Passo del Stelvio was the highlight of the day. Pretty crazy road to go up. Here's a picture at the top looking down:


At the place where Mark posted a pic of Nickolas (see a few posts previous), we enjoyed a Bratwurst sandwich from Bruno and I bought Gretel (a rag doll). I named the rag doll Gretel, but basically she's a Swiss version of Raggedy Ann (sans the heart). She had the two Swiss braids (me too!), so I just had to buy her.

Before reaching our hotel in Italy (Bozen/Balzano), we filled up at a Repsol Station. Nicky! The Orange Army is alive in well in Italy!


I also snapped a pic of an ESSO station - my old company. What was interesting was that the night before during dinner, one of the tour guides didn't realize that ESSO was owned by EXXON (previously ESSO in the US as well) and thought that ESSO was an Italian company. He also said that as a kid he felt that his motorcycle ran best on ESSO gasoline. He knows now this is just silly, but he remembers as a kid that he preferred filling up at ESSO stations.


The appetizer for dinner on Day 3 was this homemade spinach ravioli thing that was SOOOOO GOOOD! Alex couldn't finish his, so I gladly ate the rest of his! YUM! I'm getting hungry just thinking about it!

Our room was the one with the balcony at the very top.


4. Bozen to Anras (Dolomites!)
Here's a good pic of Alex and me at the top of one of the passes. I had a bite to eat and drank some hot cocoa. It was COLD at the top!


At a gas stop, Rob and Alex played fooz ball!


Here's a pic of a tunnel we were about to enter... notice that you see both the entrance and exit - a tunnel with a switchback!


Here's us entering the tunnel....


I meant to get a pic of us exiting, but forgot.

Here's a pic of MY CASTLE... More to come on that...


5. Castle Hunting
Day 5 was a rest day, so Alex went off to the Dolomites and I rented a bicycle. I headed back towards the castle we passed the day before (see above) to see if I could get in. I never made it in, but I did try! It was a lot of fun and hopefully I didn't break any laws. Unfortunately, Alex had taken the camera, so I don't have any shots of how close I got! There was one door with a BIG keyhole. It was locked, but when I stared into the keyhole, I got a view of the courtyard! It was sooo cool! I found other hidden doors, one that was behind a wall that I had to climb over (and scraped my knee), but it too was locked. After about an hour, I gave up and continued my bicycle ride on this really great paved bicycle road (no cars allowed!).

As I was riding, I daydreamed about my hour long castle hunting adventure ("Bye-bye boys, have fun storming the castle!") and before I knew it I starting seeing signs about how many kilometers I was from Austria (behind me) and the signs started having both Italian and German names. I had entered Italy and didn't even know it! Looking down at my watch, I decided I had better turn around since I had a massage appointment in the afternoon.

On the ride back, I stared again at MY CASTLE when I passed it. I was even tempted to go back and try one more time, but decided it was probably best to leave it be. Next time.

6. Grossglockner and trip back to Saurlach
This was Day 6, our last riding day. The highlight was Grossglockner, a glacier, and also the highest pass of the trip. On the way to the top, we stopped at an old church in a town which translates to "Holly Blood". In the back of the church is an aluminum book engraved with the names of all those that died climbing Grossglockner, along with a cemetery where some are buried.

Cover of book (per google, translation is "We Sacrifice, He Rescues"):


First page of book (1858):


Last page of book (2004), with empty pages for the future:


Pic of Alex and me in the Cemetery:


The Church was neat, but a bit morbid... so... continuing on, our next stop was Kaiser-Franz-Josef-Hohe where you can see a glacier up close and personal, along with a spot to see and feed Marmots! I LOVE Marmots! I still love sea otters better, but Marmots are a close second! Here's a pic of a Marmot I fed:


Like all good tourist stops, there was a souvenir shop and I got trapped by it and bought a stuffed Marmot. I named him Werner (pronounced "Verner"). We also got some great pics of Grossglockner (aka G). No clouds!

Me and G


Alex and me and G


Glacier pic


We ended up eating lunch here and had the best bad-for-you hotdog ever! It was a bratwurst with melted cheese inside, wrapped with bacon. Here's a pic of it:


I took this pic because I thought it was a cute way to depict the woman's restroom.


Talk about a bike friendly place! Not only are bikes everywhere, but the hotels and restaurants even advertise how they welcome Bikes! Wilkommen Bikes! Or something like that...




At the top of Edelweiss Spitze, I took some pictures of Werner.

Here's Werner and the Alps.


A close-up of Werner and the Alps.


A close-up of Werner and the Alps, with the turn sign showing.


Werner's good side.


Werner in Cow Town.


On the final leg, we took the Autobahn. Here's a shot of Rob on the Autobahn.


7. Home sweet home
Here's Gretel and Werner on the plane ride home.


Here's Gretel and Werner home in California on the RT in the garage.


Well, that was my trip! It's late and I have to be at work in a few hours... Auf Wiedersehen!
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Old September 5th, 2006, 09:31 AM   #13
Colin
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absolutely stunning. thanks for the play-by-play and the post-ride write-up! the roads, natural landscape and picture-book villages look truly breathtaking.

it makes me seriously reconsider how to spend my moto-dollars....
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Old September 9th, 2006, 09:09 PM   #14
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I fixed my T-shirt

Edelweiss gave us all T-shirts at the start of the trip. Even though I received a "small", it fit more like a night shirt. Instead of donating the T-shirt, I decided since I wasn't going to ever wear it, I'd take a stab at fixing it.

Here's my NEW T-shirt:

I cut off the sleeves and neckline. I chopped off the bottom of the T to shorten, then I cut off 3 inches from either side of the T and laced up the sides with the T-shirt fabric I cut off from the bottom. The shoulders were still a bit big, so I laced the shoulders up too to cinch it, and voila!

Yes, I cut off the sleeves, so the Edelweiss logo is gone... well not really. I just moved it a bit:


And what did I do with the other logo/sleeve? A draw string bag of course!


I forgot to write on the Edelweiss feedback form about the T-shirts, but I really think they should have women's T-shirts, too.

Anyone want to alter a T-shirt? I got my ideas from a book called "Generation T 108 ways to transform a T-shirt". I actually initially got the idea off of "Martha" when the book's author, Megan Nicolay, was a guest on the show. Yes... all roads lead back to Martha. (I'm a BIG fan!)
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Old September 11th, 2006, 12:24 PM   #15
Alex
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Another rider on the trip, Peter Moore, has posted some stunning photos on his own Smugmug site.

I'm kinda partial to these:







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